Влияние одежды на субкультурную среду

Опубликовано inse3t в пн., 17/03/2008 - 23:34.

На протяжении всей истории развития человека одежда является одним из основных видов общения. По одежде мы можем сказать о человеке очень многое: какое у него настроение, какая у него жизненная позиция, можно определить тип характера, интересы, даже религиозные особенности, к какой социальной группе он относится, а сегодня даже красота меряется одеждой. Неслучайно же есть пословица - "Встречают по одежде".
По одежде встречают и в субкультуре, так как именно одежда является доступом или билетом человека в ту или иную субкультуру. В первую очередь отбор строится на соответствии или несоответствии внешнего облика правилам моды данной субкультуры - сейчас принято это называть модным словом "идентификация". Под идентификацией подразумевается принятие человеком какого-либо типа поведения, при котором всеми остальными членами субкультуры он будет считаться своим. То есть человек принимает "правила игры" принятые в субкультуре и полностью (или частично) соответствует ее облику.
Человек сам для себя определяет, хочет ли он быть представителем той или иной субкультуры, и достаточно, как считают многие, облачиться в необходимую одежду.

Есть такая точка зрения на субкультуру, что одежда позволяет человеку отделяться от всех остальных и, наоборот, объединяться с ними. Поэтому, идя по улице, мы можем без труда определить человека, относящего себя к какой-либо субкультуре по внешним признакам.
И больше того – одежда является портретом внутреннего мира человека. Каждый элемент говорит о каких-либо психологических особенностях, которые раскрываются в каждой субкультуре по-разному и несут в себе иногда даже противоположный смысл:
1. Черный цвет чаще всего кричит о том, что человек хочет отделиться от всего мира. В готике – это уже особенность мировосприятия через мрачную меланхолию. В элитарной субкультуре – это принятие позиции неприступности и загадочности.
2. Браслеты в эмо-культуре – символ душевных оков человека, которые он не может снять. В панк-культуре браслеты больше соотносятся с желанием человека обуздать в себе животное начало, заковав себя, как дикое животное.
3. Разнообразные логотипы музыкантов – говорят о музыкальных предпочтениях, о фанатизме, об уважении к личности музыканта.
4. Значки с символами во всех субкультурах говорят о виртуальности мировосприятия и мистике. Причем мистика и виртуальность у каждой субкультуры своя.
5. Драные вещи в эмо-культуре символизируют разорванную плоть и говорят о трагическом, пессимистическом видении мира, в субкультуре стиляг – это желание показать свое превосходство над остальными и брезгливое отношение к ним.
Этот список можно продолжать до бесконечности. Важно лишь то, что каждый элемент одежды, будь то форма каблука, ремень, длина рукава, пирсинг и т. д., несет в себе смысл в единстве всего образа.

Особое значение в одежде, как и в моде, принадлежит элитарным слоям общества, в субкультуре, основанной на музыкальных пристрастиях, - это образ музыканта, который и задает моду своим слушателям. Музыкант выступает законодателем мод, и его внешний вид и одежда копируются фанатами. Правда, иногда мы забываем, что для музыканта одежда на концерте или в клипе не является повседневной, она для него - костюм, образ. А фанаты придают этой одежде значение повседневности. Именно поэтому мы часто сталкиваемся с необычным внешним видом людей на улице, одетых как бы для маскарада, концерта или театра.

Общепризнанно, что с помощью одежды можно управлять человеком, прививать ему какие-либо нормы. Чем сейчас пользуются законодатели мод в субкультуре. Каждая вещь, присущая какому-либо субкультурному направлению, выступает средством манипуляции людьми. Например, черный цвет в готике подчеркивает мрачность, которую должен нести в себе человек. И мы видим, что это действует.

Главным принципом в одежде той или иной субкультуры можно назвать подражание и индивидуальность. Подражание проявляется в том, что позволяет "слиться с толпой" – надеть маску. Человек чувствует себя защищенным под маской субкультурного образа, благодаря чему может отрешиться от своих проблем. Индивидуальность связана с развитием собственного стиля в рамках субкультурного направления. Когда человек привносит в свой внешний вид что-то свое: свое видение, свое понимание моды, свои выдумки и т. д. Это позволяет человеку быть уникальным в субкультуре, так как общие черты субкультурного стиля он сохраняет и его легко можно узнать.

В каждой субкультуре постоянно вводится что-то новое, и постоянно происходит отбор нового. Некоторые задумки представителей субкультуры становятся частью общего стиля. Таким образом, одежда в субкультуре создает для человека искусственные потребности в каких-либо вещах. Они не нужны, но для полного образа должны быть. Это например, значки, пирсинг, цепи, разнообразные украшения (цепь с каким-либо знаком у репера, указывающий на статус, так как большую роль занимает престиж).

Выделим типичные особенности внешнего вида представителей некоторых субкультур, по которым можно без труда отнести человека к той или иной субкультуре.

ЭМО стиль.
Это довольно яркий стиль. Цветовая гамма состоит из розового и чёрного цветов, что символизирует любовь и смерть – они являются основными аспектами эмо-философии. Пышная, яркая одежда (розовые, чёрные цвета), кеды на толстой подошве (такие же, по возможности), огромное количество различных аксессуаров (браслеты, значки), большое количество пирсинга, длинная чёлка, закрывающая один глаз – всё это присуще эмо. Стиль выразительный, ясно проглядывается желание быть замеченным, хотя это не основная суть. В сути своей эмо стремятся к наиболее понятному выражению своей индивидуальности. Как бы то ни было – таких ребят трудно не заметить.

Готический стиль.
Это смешение многих различных стилей – от панка black metal’а, до фетиша и bdsm, вместе с викторианской и елизаветинской эпохами. Основные цвета – чёрный (в основном) и белый (зачастую вообще нет, иногда задействуется для разбавления мрачности). Одежда выражена в современных "реставрациях" исторических костюмов. Среди аксессуаров самую большую роль играют серебряные украшения с характерной для готов символикой (кельтский крест, египетский анк, всевозможные орнаменты и многоконечные звезды): кольца, подвески, цепочки, браслеты; ошейники, часто шипованные - привет панкам. Так же, от панков к готам пришёл пирсинг.

Панк-стиль.
Слово "punk", в переводе с английского значит "шпана", "отребье". И действительно – одежда у панков грязная, порванная – слово "отребье" здесь очень подходит. Внешний вид в основном состоит из джинсов, майки, кед, на голове ирокез или ещё какая-нибудь вызывающая причёска. Грязь, заплатки на одежде – также несомненная атрибутика этого стиля. Стремление стиля – бросить вызов окружающим, что соответствует идеологии самих панков.

Хип-хоп стиль.
Висящая майка, широкие штаны, кеды на высокой подошве, зачастую кепка – человека, принадлежащего хип-хоп субкультуре, узнать легко. Одежда всегда больше на пару размеров – ценители хип-хопа любят ощущать себя комфортно и свободно, совмещая это со стильностью и модностью.

Стиль металлистов.
Агрессивный, грубый стиль одежды. Длинные волосы, одежда по большей части кожаная, шиповатые ремни и напульсники, грубая обувь ("камелоты", "гриндерсы"). Определённых цветов в одежде нет, зачастую используются нашивки с любимыми группами.

Всё это - лишь стеориотипы для основы развития вашего собственного стиля. Не бойтесь отходить от рамок и экспериментировать, добавляя что-то своё. Не надо терять свою индивидуальность в погоне за желанием закрыть себя в рамки, для ощущения большей "трушности". Ведь все мы разные и очень творческие люди. У каждого из нас есть свой собственный стиль и свое видение красоты, которые нельзя загнать в стандарты моды и рамки только одного стиля.

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